GOLDEN TRIANGLE, Thailand (AP) — In
the lush hills of northern Thailand, a herd of 20 elephants is excreting
some of the world's most expensive coffee.
Trumpeted as earthy in flavor and smooth on the palate, the exotic new
brew is made from beans eaten by Thai elephants and plucked a day later
from their dung. A gut reaction inside the elephant creates what its
founder calls the coffee's unique taste. Stomach turning or oddly
alluring, this is not just one of the world's most unusual specialty
coffees. At $1,100 per kilogram ($500 per pound), it's also among the
world's priciest. For now, only the wealthy or well-traveled have access
to the cuppa, which is called Black Ivory Coffee. It was launched last
month at a few luxury hotels in remote corners of the world — first in
northern Thailand, then the Maldives and now Abu Dhabi — with the price
tag of about $50 a serving. 05 more images after the break...
world — first in northern Thailand, then the Maldives and now Abu Dhabi — with the price tag of about $50 a serving.
The Associated Press traveled to the coffee's production site in the
Golden Triangle, an area historically known for producing drugs more
potent than coffee, to see the jumbo baristas at work. And to sip the
finished product from a dainty demi-tasse. In the misty mountains where
Thailand meets Laos and Burna, the coffee's creator cites biology and
scientific research to answer the basic question: Why elephants?
"When an elephant eats coffee, its stomach acid breaks down the protein
found in coffee, which is a key factor in bitterness," said Blake
Dinkin, who has spent $300,000 developing the coffee. "You end up with a
cup that's very smooth without the bitterness of regular coffee."
The result is similar in civet coffee, or kopi luwak, another
exorbitantly expensive variety extracted from the excrement of the
weasel-like civet. But the elephants' massive stomach provides a bonus.
Think of the elephant as the animal kingdom's equivalent of a slow
cooker. It takes between 15-30 hours to digest the beans, which stew
together with bananas, sugar cane and other ingredients in the
elephant's vegetarian diet to infuse unique earthy and fruity flavors,
said the 42-year-old Canadian, who has a background in civet coffee.
"My theory is that a natural fermentation process takes place in the
elephant's gut," said Dinkin. "That fermentation imparts flavors you
wouldn't get from other coffees."
At the jungle retreat that is home to the herd, conservationists were initially skeptical about the idea.
"My initial thought was about caffeine — won't the elephants get wired
on it or addicted to coffee?" said John Roberts, director of elephants
at the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation, a refuge for rescued
elephants. It now earns 8 percent of the coffee's total sales, which go
toward the herd's healthcare. "As far as we can tell there is definitely
no harm to the elephants."
Before presenting his proposal to the foundation, Dinkin said he worked
with a Canadian-based veterinarian that ran blood tests on zoo elephants
showing they don't absorb any caffeine from eating raw coffee cherries.
"I thought it was well worth a try because we're looking for anything
that can help elephants to make a living," said Roberts, who estimates
the cost of keeping each elephant is about $1,000 a month.
As for the coffee's inflated price, Dinkin half-joked that elephants are
highly inefficient workers. It takes 33 kilograms (72 pounds) of raw
coffee cherries to produce 1 kilogram of (2 pounds) Black Ivory coffee.
The majority of beans get chewed up, broken or lost in tall grass after
being excreted.
And, his artisanal process is labor-intensive. He uses pure Arabica
beans hand-picked by hill-tribe women from a small mountain estate. Once
the elephants do their business, the wives of elephant mahouts collect
the dung, break it open and pick out the coffee. After a thorough
washing, the coffee cherries are processed to extract the beans, which
are then brought to a gourmet roaster in Bangkok.
Inevitably, the elephant coffee has become the butt of jokes. Dinkin
shared his favorites: Crap-accino. Good to the last dropping. Elephant
poop coffee.
As far away as Hollywood, even Jay Leno has taken cracks.
"Here's my question," Leno quipped recently. "Who is the first person
that saw a bunch of coffee beans and a pile of elephant dung and said,
'You know, if I ground those up and drank it, I'll bet that would be
delicious.'"
Jokes aside, people are drinking it. Black Ivory's maiden batch of 70
kilograms (150 pounds) has sold out. Dinkin hopes to crank out six times
that amount in 2013, catering to a customer he sees as relatively
affluent, open-minded and adventurous with a desire to tell a good
story.
For now, the only places to get it are a few Anantara luxury resorts,
including one at the Golden Triangle beside the elephant foundation.
At sunset one recent evening in the hotel's hilltop bar, an American
couple sampled the brew. They said it surpassed their expectations.
"I thought it would be repulsive," said Ryan Nelson, 31, of Tampa,
Florida. "But I loved it. It was something different. There's definitely
something wild about it that I can't put a name on."
His wife Asleigh, a biologist and coffee lover, called it a "fantastic
product for an eco-conscious consumer," since the coffee helps fund
elephant conservation.
But how does it taste?
"Very interesting," she said, choosing her words carefully. "Very novel."
"I don't think I could afford it every day on my zookeeper's salary,"
she said. "But I'm certainly enjoying it sitting here overlooking the
elephants, on vacation."
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